Large red amaryllis flowers with a white stripe down the middle of each petal

Amaryllis

Hippeastrum x hybridum
Care level: Easy

The amaryllis sold for winter flowering is a Hippeastrum, a large bulb from Central and South America that sends up a thick, hollow stem topped with two to six huge trumpet flowers in red, pink, white, salmon or stripes. It flowers indoors about six to eight weeks after planting, usually before the strap-shaped leaves have grown. With a summer of feeding and an autumn rest the same bulb flowers again year after year. It is not the true Amaryllis, a different plant from South Africa.

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Information

Varieties and related species
Hippeastrum 'Red Lion'Hippeastrum 'Apple Blossom'Hippeastrum 'Picotee'

Light

Bright light. Full sun is fine in winter; give light shade from hot summer sun.

Water

Water sparingly until growth starts, then regularly while it is in leaf. Stop watering during the autumn rest.

Humidity

Average room humidity is enough.

Soil

A free-draining potting compost, in a heavy pot only slightly wider than the bulb.

Temperature

Normal room temperature while growing; a cool rest at about 13°C in autumn. Not frost hardy.

Size

30-90cm tall and 23-30cm wide.

Growth speed

Fast

Toxic to pets

Toxic to cats and dogs if eaten.

Can cause vomiting and diarrhoea, and more rarely affects heart rhythm.

If your pet has eaten some, contact your vet.

Source: NC State Extension, Pet Poison Helpline

Beginner tip

Do not throw the bulb away after flowering. Cut off the faded flower stem, keep the leaves growing and feed the plant all summer: the leaves rebuild the bulb, and a bulb that has been well fed is the one that flowers again.

Care by Season

Spring

Flowering ends. Cut off the stem, keep the leaves and start feeding.

Summer

Water and feed regularly. The pot can stand outdoors in a sheltered, bright spot.

Autumn

Bring it in before frost, stop watering and rest the bulb in a cool place for eight to ten weeks.

Winter

Bring the bulb into warmth, refresh the top of the compost and water sparingly. The flower stem appears within weeks.

Growing & Maintenance

Planting

Plant in a pot a little wider than the bulb, with the top third of the bulb above the compost. Water sparingly until growth appears.

Repotting

Repot only every few years, after the rest period. In other years replace the top few centimetres of compost.

Fertilising

Feed every one to two weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser from the end of flowering until late summer.

Propagation

By separating offsets from the mother bulb when repotting. Seed is slow and the seedlings differ from the parent.

Pests & Diseases

Common problems

Leaves but no flower

Most likely cause: A bulb that was not fed in summer or had no rest.
What to do: Feed and water all summer, then rest it cool and dry in autumn.

A leaning flower stem

Most likely cause: Light from one side and heavy flowers.
What to do: Turn the pot daily and stake the stem.

A soft bulb

Most likely cause: Overwatering before growth started.
What to do: Water sparingly until the stem or leaves are growing.

Long, floppy leaves

Most likely cause: Too little light.
What to do: Move it to the brightest spot you have.

Flowers that fade within days

Most likely cause: A hot room.
What to do: Move it somewhere cooler once the buds open.

Pests & Diseases

Mealybugs

Signs: White, cottony tufts between the leaf bases and under the papery skin at the neck of the bulb.
Treatment: Wipe them off with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol and repeat weekly. Check the undersides of the leaves and the crevices where the leaf stem meets the main stalk.

Red blotch

Signs: Red spots and streaks on the leaves, flower stem and bulb scales, with stems that bend at the marks.
Treatment: Remove badly marked leaves, keep water off the bulb and leaves, and give the plant more air and light.

Bulb rot

Signs: The bulb turns soft at the base and the leaves yellow and collapse, in compost that stays wet.
Treatment: Cut away soft tissue, let the bulb dry for a few days and repot in fresh, free-draining compost. Discard a bulb that is soft throughout.

FAQ

How do I plant an amaryllis bulb?

Use a pot only a little wider than the bulb, with drainage holes, and set the bulb so that its top third stays above the compost. Water once, then sparingly until growth appears, and stand it in a bright, warm place.

How do I get my amaryllis to flower again?

After flowering, cut the stem off but keep the leaves. Water and feed regularly through spring and summer, outdoors if you like. In early autumn stop watering and give the bulb a cool rest of eight to ten weeks at about 13°C, then bring it back into warmth and start watering again.

Is amaryllis toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes. All parts contain lycorine and related alkaloids, and the bulb holds the most. Eating it causes vomiting, drooling and diarrhoea, and a large amount can lead to low blood pressure, tremors and heart rhythm problems. Keep bulbs and plants out of reach.

Why did my bulb produce leaves but no flower?

The bulb did not store enough food the previous summer, or it had no rest period. Feed and water it well while it is in leaf, give it full light, and rest it in autumn.

Why is the flower stem leaning?

It is growing towards the light, and the flowers are heavy. Turn the pot a little every day, and support the stem with a cane if needed.

Should I repot it every year?

No. It flowers best when it is tight in its pot. Replace the top few centimetres of compost each year and repot only every few years, after the rest period.

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