Two white, funnel-shaped calla lily flowers with yellow centres among large, glossy green leaves

Calla lily

Zantedeschia aethiopica
Care level: Easy

The calla lily is a clump-forming perennial from the marshes and stream banks of southern Africa. It is not a true lily but an arum: what looks like a single white petal is a spathe, a rolled leaf-like sheath wrapped around a yellow spike that carries the real, tiny flowers. The leaves are large, glossy, dark green and arrow-shaped, on long stalks. It is sold as a flowering pot plant for cool, bright rooms, and in mild regions it also grows outdoors in a damp border or at the edge of a pond.

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Information

Varieties and related species
Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Crowborough'Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Green Goddess'Zantedeschia elliottiana hybrids

Light

Bright light with some direct morning or evening sun. Outdoors, sun or partial shade.

Water

Keep the compost constantly moist in growth; it tolerates standing in shallow water. Water much less during the summer rest.

Humidity

Average room humidity is enough in a cool room.

Soil

Rich, loam-based, peat-free compost that holds moisture. Outdoors, moist soil or the shallow margin of a pond.

Size

0.5-1m tall and 30-60cm wide.

Growth speed

Medium

Hardiness

Hardy down to about -10°C. Source: RHS

Toxic to pets

Toxic to cats and dogs if eaten.

Chewing it can irritate the mouth, causing drooling and trouble swallowing.

If your pet has eaten some, contact your vet.

Source: NC State Extension, Pet Poison Helpline

Did you know?

This is a marsh plant, and it wants far more water than most houseplants. While it is growing and flowering, keep the compost constantly moist; it will even grow with its pot standing in a little water. The coloured callas in pink, yellow and orange are different: they grow from tubers, rot if kept wet and need a dry winter rest.

Care by Season

Spring

In growth and flower. Water freely and feed every two weeks. Plant or divide outdoor clumps.

Summer

Flowering ends. Water less for a couple of months to rest the plant.

Autumn

Repot in fresh compost and resume watering as new leaves appear. Mulch outdoor crowns.

Winter

Indoors it grows in a cool, bright room. Outdoors, tidy frost-blackened leaves and keep the mulch in place.

Growing & Maintenance

Planting

Outdoors, plant in spring with the rhizome about 10cm deep in moist soil. In a pond, use a 30cm planting basket of aquatic compost in water up to 30cm deep.

Repotting

Repot indoor plants each year in early autumn, at the end of the rest, into fresh loam-based compost. Divide crowded clumps at the same time.

Fertilising

Feed every two weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser from the time growth starts until the flowers fade.

Pruning

Cut faded flower stems and yellow leaves off at the base. Remove frost-damaged leaves outdoors in spring.

Propagation

By division of the rhizomes in spring outdoors, or at repotting time indoors.

Pests & Diseases

Common problems

Leaves flop and yellow in growth

Most likely cause: The compost dried out.
What to do: Water thoroughly and keep it constantly moist.

Long, weak leaf stalks

Most likely cause: Too warm and too dark.
What to do: Move to a cooler, brighter place.

No flowers

Most likely cause: Low light, no summer rest or a crowded pot.
What to do: Give more light, rest it and repot.

Green spathes

Most likely cause: Age, poor light or too much nitrogen.
What to do: Remove old flowers and give more light.

Blackened leaves outdoors

Most likely cause: Frost.
What to do: Cut them off in spring and mulch the crown in winter.

Brown leaf tips

Most likely cause: Dry air in a heated room.
What to do: Move to a cooler room and keep the compost moist.

Pests & Diseases

Aphids

Signs: Clusters of small insects on the leaf stalks, flower stems and inside the spathes.
Treatment: Wipe or rinse them off and repeat every few days.

Thrips

Signs: Silvery streaks on the leaves and brown flecks on the white spathes.
Treatment: Rinse the plant, isolate it and use blue sticky traps.

Soft rot

Signs: The base of the stems turns soft, slimy and foul-smelling, and the leaves collapse.
Treatment: Cut away all rotten tissue, let the rhizome dry and repot in fresh compost. Badly affected plants are best discarded.

FAQ

How do I look after a calla lily indoors?

Give it a cool, bright spot with some gentle direct sun, keep the compost moist at all times while it is in leaf, and feed every two weeks until the flowers fade. A warm, dim living room makes it leggy and short-lived.

What do I do after it has flowered?

Cut the spent flower stems off at the base and keep watering and feeding for a few weeks while the leaves build up the rhizome. Then water less for a couple of months to give it a rest, repot in early autumn and start watering freely again.

Can I plant it in the garden?

Yes, in mild areas. Plant it in spring in moist soil in sun or partial shade, with the rhizome about 10cm deep, and cover the crown with a thick, dry mulch in its first winters. Frost blackens the leaves, but an established clump reshoots. It also grows as a pond marginal in water up to 30cm deep.

Why are the leaves yellowing?

After flowering, some yellowing is the start of the natural rest. During growth it usually means the compost dried out, the plant is short of food or the room is too warm and dark.

Why are there leaves but no flowers?

Too little light, no rest period or a crowded pot. Give it the brightest place you have, a drier rest in summer, and divide and repot it in fresh compost.

Why are the flowers green?

The white spathes turn green as they age, and new ones can come green in poor light or after heavy feeding with nitrogen. 'Green Goddess' is a variety that is green-tipped by nature.

Should I wear gloves?

Yes, when dividing or cutting it. The sap irritates the skin and eyes, and all parts are harmful if eaten.

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