Short green cucumbers developing on vines that trail over the ground, with yellow flowers and large leaves

Cucumber

Cucumis sativus
Care level: Moderate

The cucumber is a fast, annual vine from the foothills of the Himalayas, grown for its crisp, green fruits. It climbs by thin tendrils, carries large, rough, angular leaves and opens yellow flowers all summer, each female flower with a tiny cucumber behind it. There are two kinds: long, smooth greenhouse cucumbers, which need steady warmth and humidity, and shorter, rougher outdoor or ridge cucumbers, which crop in a sunny, sheltered bed. Both need rich, moist soil, regular water and no frost, and a couple of plants supply a household.

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Information

Varieties and related species
Cucumis sativus 'Marketmore'Cucumis sativus 'Carmen'Cucumis sativus 'Crystal Lemon'

Light

Full sun outdoors, in a warm, sheltered spot. Under glass, bright light with light shading from scorching midsummer sun.

Water

Keep the soil or compost evenly moist at all times. Water little and often and never let the plants dry out.

Humidity

Greenhouse types like humid air; damp down the floor on hot days. Not a factor outdoors.

Soil

Rich, moisture-holding but well-drained soil or compost, slightly acid to neutral, with plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure.

Temperature

Frost tender and slow below about 15°C. Greenhouse types want 20°C or more; outdoor types go out only after the last frost.

Size

Stems climb or trail 2m or more; grow them up a support.

Growth speed

Fast

Pet safety not confirmed

As a precaution, keep it out of reach of children and pets.

Did you know?

Know which type you are growing. Greenhouse cucumbers must not be pollinated, or the fruits turn bitter and full of seeds: grow an all-female variety, or pick off the male flowers. Outdoor cucumbers are the opposite. They need insects to pollinate them, so leave every flower on.

Care by Season

Spring

Sow indoors in mid-spring. Plant greenhouse types in their final pots or border and harden off outdoor types.

Summer

Plant outdoor types after the last frost. Train, water, feed and pick every few days.

Autumn

Cropping slows as nights cool. Clear the plants at the first frost or when mildew takes over.

Winter

Nothing to do. Dig compost into next year's planting spot.

Growing & Maintenance

Planting

Plant one plant per large pot or growing bag position, or 45-60cm apart in a bed enriched with compost, on a slight mound so that water drains away from the stem. Put the support in first.

Fertilising

Feed every 10-14 days with a high-potash liquid fertiliser once the first fruits start to swell.

Pruning

Pinch out the tip of the main stem at the top of its support and shorten side shoots to two leaves beyond a fruit.

Support

Give canes, strings, netting or trellis about 1.8m tall. Tie in the main stem; the tendrils hold the side shoots.

Propagation

By seed, sown indoors in warmth in mid-spring.

Pests & Diseases

Common problems

Bitter fruits

Most likely cause: Pollination of greenhouse types, or stress from cold and drought.
What to do: Grow all-female varieties under glass and keep warmth and water steady.

Fruitlets yellow and wither

Most likely cause: Too many fruits, or a check to growth.
What to do: Remove them, feed weekly and keep the roots warm and moist.

White powdery leaves

Most likely cause: Powdery mildew.
What to do: Water at the base and remove the worst leaves.

The stem rots at soil level

Most likely cause: Wet compost around the base of the stem.
What to do: Plant on a mound and water around the plant, not against the stem.

Flowers but no fruit outdoors

Most likely cause: Only male flowers so far, or no pollinating insects in cold weather.
What to do: Wait for female flowers, or hand-pollinate with a male flower.

Leaves wilt at midday

Most likely cause: Thirst or root damage in hot weather.
What to do: Water in the morning and mulch.

Pests & Diseases

Powdery mildew

Signs: A white powdery coating on the leaves from midsummer, worst on plants that are dry at the root.
Treatment: Water regularly at the base, give more air and remove the worst leaves. Choose a resistant variety.

Cucumber mosaic virus

Signs: Leaves mottled yellow and puckered, stunted plants and small, pitted, hard fruits.
Treatment: Remove and destroy the plant, control aphids and wash your hands and tools afterwards.

Whitefly

Signs: Clouds of tiny white insects flying up from plants under glass, with sticky leaves.
Treatment: Hang yellow sticky traps and rinse the undersides of the leaves.

Red spider mite

Signs: Fine pale speckling on the leaves and thin webbing in hot, dry greenhouses.
Treatment: Raise the humidity by damping down and rinse the foliage. Check the undersides of the leaves and the crevices where the leaf stem meets the main stalk.

FAQ

What is the difference between greenhouse and outdoor cucumbers?

Greenhouse types give long, smooth, thin-skinned fruits and need heat, humidity and a tall support. Outdoor, or ridge, types are hardier, with shorter, often spiny fruits, and are grown in a sunny bed or pot, trailing or trained up netting. Gherkins are small-fruited outdoor types picked young.

Should I remove the male flowers?

Only on greenhouse cucumbers that are not all-female varieties. Male flowers have a plain thin stalk; female ones have a miniature cucumber behind the petals. Modern all-female F1 varieties make this job unnecessary. Never remove male flowers from outdoor cucumbers.

Why are my cucumbers bitter?

In greenhouse types, pollination. In all types, stress from cold nights, drought or erratic watering. Do not eat bitter fruit and do not feed it to pets, as the bitter compounds can cause stomach upset. Keep watering even and remove the affected fruits.

When do I sow cucumbers?

Indoors in mid-spring, one seed on its edge about 1cm deep in a small pot, at 20°C or more. Sow greenhouse types a little earlier if the greenhouse is heated. Plant out outdoor types only after the last frost, once hardened off.

How do I train them?

Tie the main stem to a cane or string and pinch out its tip when it reaches the top of the support. Shorten side shoots to two leaves beyond a fruit. Outdoor types can simply be left to trail, with the tip pinched out after six or seven leaves to make them branch.

Why are the small fruits turning yellow and shrivelling?

The plant is carrying more fruit than it can feed, or it has had a check from cold, dry roots or low light. Remove the withered fruitlets, feed weekly and keep the roots warm and evenly moist.

How often should I pick?

Every two or three days in midsummer. Cut fruits while they are firm and evenly green; any left to turn yellow and seedy stop the plant producing more.

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