Ripe red raspberries hanging among green leaves

Raspberry

Rubus idaeus
Care level: Easy

The raspberry is a deciduous fruit bush that sends up tall, upright canes from a spreading root system and carries soft red fruit in summer or autumn. The leaves are divided into toothed leaflets, white-felted underneath, and the canes may or may not be prickly. It is fully hardy, crops for years in the same spot, and asks mainly for sun, a slightly acid soil and the right cut at the right time.

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Information

Varieties and related species
Rubus idaeus 'Glen Ample'Rubus idaeus 'Tulameen'Rubus idaeus 'Autumn Bliss'

Light

Full sun for the best crop. Partial shade is tolerated.

Water

Water regularly in dry weather, above all while the fruit is swelling. Water at the base to keep the fruit dry.

Humidity

Not a factor outdoors, though crowded, damp rows encourage grey mould.

Soil

Fertile, well-drained, acid to neutral soil. Mulch with composted bark or another acidic material.

Size

1.5-2.5m tall and 0.5-1m wide.

Growth speed

Medium

Hardiness

Hardy down to about -20°C. Source: RHS

Pet safety not confirmed

As a precaution, keep it out of reach of children and pets.

Did you know?

Each raspberry cane lives for only two years. On summer-fruiting varieties a cane grows in its first year, fruits in its second and then dies, which is why pruning simply means removing the canes that have just fruited.

Care by Season

Spring

New canes come up. Mulch the row, tie in the canes of summer-fruiting varieties and remove unwanted suckers.

Summer

Summer-fruiting varieties crop now. Pick every few days and water in dry spells.

Autumn

Autumn-fruiting varieties crop. On summer-fruiting varieties, cut the fruited canes to the ground and tie in the new ones.

Winter

The plants are dormant and it is planting time for bare-root canes. Cut all canes of autumn-fruiting varieties to the ground in late winter.

Growing & Maintenance

Planting

Plant canes while they are dormant, in a sunny row in fertile, well-drained, acid to neutral soil, and mulch after planting.

Pruning

Summer-fruiting: cut canes that have fruited to the ground in early to mid autumn. Autumn-fruiting: cut all canes to the ground in late winter.

Support

Tie summer-fruiting canes to horizontal wires stretched between posts. Autumn-fruiting varieties usually need none.

Propagation

Lift and replant healthy suckers while the plants are dormant. Take them only from disease-free plants.

Pests & Diseases

Common problems

Yellow leaves with green veins

Most likely cause: Soil that is too alkaline, so the plant cannot take up iron.
What to do: Mulch with acidic material such as composted bark.

No fruit after pruning

Most likely cause: The young canes of a summer-fruiting variety were cut away.
What to do: Remove only the canes that have fruited and keep the new ones.

Canes springing up outside the row

Most likely cause: The roots send out suckers.
What to do: Pull or dig them out while they are small.

Small, crumbly fruit

Most likely cause: Dry soil while the fruit was forming.
What to do: Water regularly from flowering to harvest and mulch the row.

Mouldy fruit

Most likely cause: Grey mould in wet weather or a crowded row.
What to do: Pick often and thin the canes.

Canes bending to the ground

Most likely cause: No support.
What to do: Tie the canes to wires between posts.

Pests & Diseases

Raspberry beetle

Signs: Dry, grey-brown patches at the stalk end of ripe fruit, often with a small pale grub inside.
Treatment: Pick promptly and discard damaged fruit. Autumn-fruiting varieties usually escape the worst of it.

Aphids

Signs: Clusters of small insects on the shoot tips and under the leaves, with curled young growth.
Treatment: Rinse them off with a firm jet of water and leave ladybirds and other predators to do the rest.

Grey mould

Signs: Fruit turns soft and is covered in grey fuzz, especially in wet weather.
Treatment: Pick ripe fruit often, remove mouldy fruit, and thin crowded canes so air can move through the row.

Leafhoppers

Signs: Pale, speckled mottling on the upper side of the leaves.
Treatment: Light damage needs no treatment and does not affect the crop.

FAQ

When and how do I prune raspberries?

It depends on the type. On summer-fruiting varieties, cut every cane that has fruited down to the ground in early to mid autumn and keep the new green canes for next year. Autumn-fruiting varieties fruit on the current year's canes, so all of their canes are cut to the ground in late winter.

Do raspberries need support?

Summer-fruiting varieties do: their canes reach 1.5-2.5m and bend under the fruit, so tie them to wires stretched between posts. Autumn-fruiting varieties are shorter and usually stand on their own.

Why are the leaves of my raspberries turning yellow between the veins?

Usually the soil is too chalky. Raspberries want an acid to neutral soil, and in alkaline ground they cannot take up enough iron. Mulch with an acidic material such as composted bark.

Why are there small grubs in my raspberries?

They are the larvae of the raspberry beetle, which feed inside the ripening fruit and leave dry, grey-brown patches at the stalk end. Autumn-fruiting varieties are usually less affected than summer-fruiting ones.

Do raspberries spread?

Yes. New canes come up from the roots, sometimes well away from the row. Pull or dig out those you do not want while they are young.

How much sun do raspberries need?

Full sun gives the best crop, but they also fruit in partial shade.

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