Ruffled pink and purple sweet pea flowers on slender climbing stems

Sweet pea

Lathyrus odoratus
Care level: Easy

The sweet pea is an annual climber grown for its ruffled, strongly scented flowers in almost every colour except yellow. It climbs by tendrils up canes, netting or twiggy sticks, flowers from early summer and is one of the best plants for cutting: a small jar scents a room. It likes cool weather, deep rich soil and regular water, and it has one firm rule. Unlike garden peas, the seeds and pods are poisonous and must not be eaten.

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Information

Varieties and related species
Lathyrus odoratus 'Cupani'Lathyrus odoratus 'Painted Lady'Lathyrus odoratus Spencer Group

Light

Full sun; light shade in the afternoon helps in hot areas.

Water

Keep the soil moist. Water deeply in dry weather, as dry roots stop flowering and encourage mildew.

Humidity

Not a factor for this outdoor plant.

Soil

Deep, fertile, well-drained soil improved with garden compost or well-rotted manure.

Temperature

A hardy annual that prefers cool weather. Young plants stand light frost; flowering slows in summer heat.

Size

Climbs 1-2.5m in a season; bush types stay under 1m.

Growth speed

Fast

Toxic to pets

Toxic to cats and dogs if eaten.

It can make cats and dogs unwell, so keep it out of their reach.

If your pet has eaten some, contact your vet.

Source: Pet Poison Helpline

Beginner tip

Pick the flowers every few days. As soon as a plant is allowed to set seed pods it stops producing buds, so cutting is what keeps it flowering for months. Remove any pods you missed.

Care by Season

Spring

Sow, or plant out autumn-sown seedlings once the soil is workable. Pinch out the tips and put up supports.

Summer

Flowering. Pick every few days, tie in stems that wander, water deeply and feed.

Autumn

Plants finish and are cleared. Sow next year's plants under cover.

Winter

Keep autumn-sown seedlings cool, bright and just moist in a cold frame.

Growing & Maintenance

Planting

Sow one or two seeds per deep pot, about 1cm deep, and keep them cool and bright. Harden off and plant out in spring, 20-30cm apart at the foot of the support.

Fertilising

Dig compost or manure into the soil before planting. Feed with a high-potash fertiliser every two weeks once flower buds appear.

Pruning

Pinch out the tips of young plants. Cut flowers and remove faded blooms and seed pods constantly.

Support

Give canes, netting, an obelisk or twiggy sticks about 2m tall. The tendrils grip thin supports; tie in young stems to start them off.

Propagation

By seed. Named varieties come true if grown apart; let a few pods ripen and dry on the plant at the end of the season.

Pests & Diseases

Common problems

Flowering stops early

Most likely cause: Seed pods were left on, or heat and dry soil.
What to do: Remove all pods, water deeply and mulch.

Buds fall before opening

Most likely cause: Cold nights or sharp temperature swings.
What to do: Wait; later buds open normally.

Short flower stems

Most likely cause: Dry or hungry soil, or late in the season.
What to do: Water and feed; stems shorten naturally as plants age.

Leggy, weak seedlings

Most likely cause: Too much warmth and too little light.
What to do: Grow them cool and bright and pinch out the tips.

Yellow leaves from the base

Most likely cause: Drought or waterlogged roots.
What to do: Keep the soil evenly moist and well drained.

Pests & Diseases

Aphids

Signs: Clusters of small insects on shoot tips and buds; streaked or distorted growth can follow, as they spread viruses.
Treatment: Rub them off or rinse them away early.

Slugs and snails

Signs: Seedlings eaten to stumps overnight.
Treatment: Protect young plants, pick slugs off in the evening and plant out sturdy seedlings.

Powdery mildew

Signs: A white powdery coating on the leaves from midsummer, worst on dry soil.
Treatment: Water deeply at the base, mulch and remove badly affected plants at the end of the season.

Mice

Signs: Seeds dug up and eaten before or just after they germinate.
Treatment: Start seeds in pots under cover, out of reach, and plant out as seedlings.

FAQ

When should I sow sweet peas?

In autumn in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse for the earliest, strongest plants, or in late winter to spring. Sow in deep pots or root trainers, as the roots run deep and dislike disturbance.

Do I need to pinch them out?

Yes. When seedlings have three or four pairs of leaves, nip off the tip. The plant branches from the base and gives more flowering stems.

Can you eat sweet peas?

No. They are not edible peas. The seeds and pods are poisonous to people and pets.

Why have my sweet peas stopped flowering?

Usually because seed pods were left on, or because of heat and dry soil. Remove every pod, water deeply and mulch. In a hot summer the season simply ends earlier.

Why are the buds dropping before they open?

Bud drop follows cold nights, big swings between day and night temperature, or dull weather early in the season. The plant recovers by itself once conditions settle.

Do sweet peas come back every year?

No, the plant is an annual and dies after setting seed. Sow again each year. The everlasting pea, Lathyrus latifolius, is the perennial relative, but it has no scent.

Why do my sweet peas have no scent?

Scent depends on the variety. Many large-flowered modern types are only lightly scented; old-fashioned varieties such as 'Cupani' are the strongest.

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